Monday, 30 March 2015

Outback part 2: Alice --> Adelaide

We went to hostel reception and tourist information in Alice and planned a route to Uluru that takes a few extra days but visits some of the other stuff in the area too.


Our first stop was Standley Chasm which was just a chasm.. it was interesting and pretty Croc Dundee but once you've seen it there's not much more to do so was over it in about 30 seconds!


Next up was Ellery Creek which is a big water hole. We stopped for a late bbq lunch then checked it out. It looks fantastic because it's surrounded by these massive jagged red cliffs and you can swim in it but the water is reeeeaaally cold!

Camped at Ormiston Gorge on Sunday night which had solar powered showers wooooooo

Monday we headed for Kings Canyon - which we've heard from two people is better than Ayres Rock. About 150km of the route was on unsealed gravel road though which was corrugated and very bumpy at times! 


Arrived at Kings Canyon at about 2pm, had lunch and chilled - there was a pool and at sunset we enjoyed a cheeky bev on the "sunset viewing platform"



Tuesday morning we got up at 5am and set off on a walk up Kings Canyon in the dark in order to get there for sunrise. It was defs worth it to see the fascinating colours of the rocks in first light..









After Kings Canyon we drove on to Uluru for two nights. On the way we saw a big rock on the distance and thought that was it so I got an embarrassing selfie with it in the background..


That is actually just Mount Roper.. not that famous. oops

Anyway we did finally get to Yulara (nearest place you can stay to Uluru), set up camp and then headed for the rock at sunset.

Just to clarify Uluru is the name the aboriginals give to the rock and the national park is called Uluru. In fact the aboriginals were handed back the land rights a while back but on the condition that it was leased to the Aussie government for 99 years. We're in year 30 of that lease at the moment.

Sunset at Uluru was fantastic - just as the sun is about to disappear it lights up the rock bright red and the colour change is actually huge, plus the contrast with the ground really makes it special.



We went back and slept since we got up for sunrise at KC and were planning to get up for sunrise again in the morning which we just about made in time!


A free walk and talk took place after sunrise and was fascinating, I'll fill you in on some stuff that I found really interesting:

The aboriginees in Australia represent the world's oldest society that has been in continued existence. There are so many different groups that speak different languages and all have their own name - the one "tribe" at Uluru now has about 300 people in and they've been around for tens of thousands of years. In their society men and women are equal but different - they do different jobs and have different traditions.

Suprisingly, what looks like a barren landscape is actually full of life and there are various trees that bear fruit, honey ants to eat and grubs that are apparently better for you than beef, lamb, pork or any of the meats we normally eat. The aboriginees stick to their ways but with a modern approach, they may use steel knives instead of making quartz blades and they use cars to travel to places for hunting etc but still they hunt like they used to.

For the aboriginees, their ways of hunting, finding food, traditions, maps, teachings etc are all passed down through songs and stories and bits of the rock tell different stories. There are men's places and women's places around Uluru and there's strictly no taking photos of women's places because the stories in the rock are like scripture only to be read in the location where they are, not taken away. The men's place is where boys come to get initiated into manhood (this used to mean leaving the women of the tribe for up to 3 years) and even though the tour guide is clearly a man the aboriginees won't tell him what goes on in that place. Similarly, he couldn't tell us anything about the woman's place - he doesn't know as he's a man and no men are allowed to go to the women's place. 

(Men's place - drawings on the wall)

Uluru itself was formed by part of the earths surface tilting up at an angle. It carries on 5-6km below the ground too

The tour was so interesting and it's amazing how the aboriginees have integrated into society yet maintain their values. I love the idea that they sing songs as they walk that has directions in it and is essentially a map and every time they go past features of the rock or landscape they tell their kids the story of that feature which holds a lesson and this continues for generations!

Also interesting is that the national park ask you not to climb the rock on behalf of the aboriginees - it's very western to need feel the need to climb and conquer things. Yet the park have a rock climb in operation. This is because a) it was part of the lease condition from the Aboroginees to the government and b) because so many Australians feel it is their right to climb the rock and the tourist industry in Uluru is all they have. 

Waterfall - when it rains all the water drains straight off the rock here and pours straight off into a waterhole at the bottom.

Anyway enough about that, after the talk we headed back to the campsite and just chilled out all day in the shade and applied for a few jobs. Went to see sunset again but clouds stopped the rock lighting up so we were lucky to see it when we did!

Watched Crocodile Dundee before bed then woke up early to hit the road at sunrise.

We had planned on making Adelaide in 3 days initially with two overnight stops but convinced ourselves today to smash it out in two days with one overnight stop and then finally we just decided to smash it all out!

Drove from 7:30am for over 17 hours travelling 1583km and taking the Paj up to over 9000kms on this roadtrip.

(I actually post this at 12:32am with one hour to go so fingers crossed!)

Sooooooooon xox


Ps. I remembered how much I loved Crocodile Dundee after watching it last night so I bought a hat like his - real Kangaroo leather too. Life investment.



Saturday, 28 March 2015

Shaved head

So I left you as I was about to get the head shaved. Here's some pics:

Wednesday, 25 March 2015

Outback part 1: Cairns --> Alice

Cairns(Tues) --> 2418km --> Alice(Saturday)

THE OUTBACK
The aim of going to the outback is essentially to see the big rock.

Said big rock is in Uluru which is 6 hours from Alice Springs which is 13 hours from Mount Isa which is 9 hours from Townsville (where I got the haircut)

So the first leg of journey is to head towards Mount Isa.

On Tuesday we left Cairns for Townsville then headed out of Townsville around 5pm after shaving out heads and drove west till the sun began going down. Camped at Macrossan bridge about an hour and a half out of Townsville.


Wednesday was the first proper day of driving towards Mt Isa but outback driving is nuts - cows just walk across the road and birds feast on locusts in the middle of the road. As we get closer the birds fly away and the locusts jump to get out the way but about 10 get caught in the grill of the Pajero! Lovely.

We ticked the car over to 5000km but just after we did, at about 4pm, the Paj decided to breakdown 64km from our end destination for the day, Cloncurry.

This time the radiator hose had gone so not such a big issue but we couldn't nurse it 64km without risking serious damage so had to call 'no dramas' Fred the tow man in Cloncurry to come get us.

When Fred had loaded the Paj onto his truck and we'd got in he couldn't start it! I joked "what tows a tow truck?" and in typical Aussie fashion he said "fuck knows mate" haha. Luckily he did get it to start and dropped us at Wagon Wheel Motel Cloncurry for the night. We had a wander round Cloncurry in the evening and got swarmed by hundreds of grasshoppers outside the motel. Biblical shit.


Had dinner and watched Forgetting Sarah Marshall before bed. Outback isn't so bad ;)

Thursday morning we mooched and heard that the Paj wasn't going to be ready till the next day (Deja Vu?) but got a cheeky surprise call at about 4pm that we were good to go and 'fuck knows' Fred had managed to get the parts from Mt Isa in time so we stocked up on water and grub then set off to make Mt Isa before sunset. This is what we saw as we got close - you can see the smoke coz it's a big mining town.


Friday morning our back left tyre had deflated quite a lot from 35psi down to 20. Not good. We knew that the back left tyre had a plug in it already but it was clearly leaking quite badly so we went to get the spare put on. No second hand tyres were the right size and we didn't want to fork out for a new one so just kept the plugged flat as the spare.

Set off at about 11am and got a solid 3 hours driving done before breakdown number 3 just before the Northern Territory border! This time we'd just filled up and broke down 1km out of a little village so we rang 'no dramas' Fred back in Cloncurry to ask if he knew anything that might've gone wrong. After we told him we were broken down again he said "you're fackin joking mate" and his suggestion was that I may have put Diesel not unleaded in the car.

We walked back to the village to find out that obviously I had not! Got a local mechanic to pull the Paj back to the village where he hoisted the Paj, found the problem (hand coil and fuel filter) and replaced it. Not v expensive and we were back on the road by 5. We were planning not to drive in the heat of the day (2-4pm) anyway so didn't lose too much time and made it into NT!


Pulled into a roadside rest stop for the evening where I was very grateful for my mozzie net coz there was shit loads of flies - not biting ones but just annoying buzzing ones that land all over your face.

Woke up at sunrise to get as much driving done as possible so were on the road by 6:30. Made it to "threeways" imaginatively named because the only two roads meet and one way goes to Darwin, one to Cairns and the other to Alice Springs and Adelaideto Devil's Marbles. We turned left off the road we'd been on for five days and continued towards Alice. Stopped for lunch at Devils Marbles where we clambered over the massive granite rocks and binged on the free wifi hotspot!! 





Next stop was the most central pub in Australia (obviously!) where we chilled from 2-4pm, leaving the Paj bonnet open under some shade to cool off. From there we continued past the Tropic of Capricorn..



..And finally to Alice Springs! Got here in daylight last night as well :) Was so nice to have meat again rather than just pasta and sauce!

Free pancake breakfast this morning and Internet have set us up for the 6 hour drive towards the rock today!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Route so far:
Sydney - Port Macquarie - Byron Bay - Nimbin - Surfers Paradise - Noosa - Fraser Island(bd) - Rainbow Beach - Airlie Beach - Cairns - Macrossan river - (bd) Cloncurry - Mt Isa - (bd) - Roadside - Alice Springs

Will keep you updated when I have signal xo

Friday, 20 March 2015

Cliff diving, white water airbedding, the GBF and a new haircut

Rainbow beach✅ Airlie beach✅ Cairns✅

It's been a while chaps I'm sorry.

A month yesterday marks the beginning of our East Coast road trip when we left Sydney.


4090km later we're leaving Cairns and the East Coast to head into the outback. By the end of today we'll have travelled the distance from Lands End to John O'Groats three times over. #statattack


I'll pick up where I left off.. the PAJERO was in the garage after the clutch issue and we were stuck in Rainbow Beach while it was getting better.

We got a call to tell us that the Paj needed an extra part (clutch cylinder) so wouldn't be ready for another day as it had to be ordered. The issue with this was that the others all had a Whitsunday island cruise booked on Saturday that left from Airlie beach, a 10 hour straight drive away and the Paj wasn't going to be ready till Friday afternoon now.

In the mean time we sold our surfboards because after Rainbow Beach the East coast waves die out and sharks and stingers become more common.

I also bought a book (which I have now finished) but that was the first time I've read a book in absolutely ages so I'm chuffed: Philip Margolin - Ties That Bind, really good read - all about a cartel and its connections with high ranking US government members and how it all gets brought down. Grisham-esque.

There were no other problems with the Paj luckily so we picked it up Friday at about 2pm and bombed it up to Airlie beach for 2am with stops. Huge drive!

The Whitsundays cruise left the next day but I'd done it already with Mark in January so didn't go again even though it was immense! Instead I said bye to Paddy, Aaron and Anina and reluctantly made friends with the 7 girls in my 9 bed hostel room 🙊😜 We all pre-gooned and went out and it was a class night.

Next day was a serious chill day, one of the girls in my hostel room and I went to the lagoon. Airlie Beach and Cairns among others have lagoons (outdoor swimming pools) to stop people going in the sea because the sharks and stingers are much more prevalent up north. Anyway we swam, read and sunbathed till lunch then in the afternoon went on a bushwalk to this little pebble beach with loads of washed up coral and amazing views and I had a swim.




I lost my sunglasses on the walk to the beach and on the way back was scouring the path for them when all of a sudden..


...so creepy! But back at the carpark I found the guy who'd done it and thanked him, mystery solved!

The drive back was at sunset and pulled over to see this. Fantastic.


The following day (Monday) the others got back and I went to their boat's afterparty!

Tuesday we left for Cairns and got as far as Jourama falls where we camped for the night. In the morning we decided that walking up the path to the lookout wasn't challenging enough so armed with a GoPro headcam and nothing else we went climbing up the falls. It was so good - clambering over rocks, swimming through rock pools, sliding down mini waterfalls and jumping into deep ravines. Absolutely loved it.

We carried on to Cairns and booked ourselves into a "quiet" hostel. After staying at Nomads hostels most of the way up the coast we needed a break from the party hostels! Having said that I didn't get to bed any earlier coz I binged on House of Cards every night! Nearly finished the new series now.

Thursday we just chilled - I began searching for farm work and made a few calls but it's the end of the summer now so it's not looking as promising. Evening house of cards binge. Standard.

Friday went to another waterfall - Crystal Cascades - same deal but higher water level, much stronger current and more difficult rock climbing. So not really the same deal. Oh and the jump I did at Crystal Cascades was much higher. Don't think I've ever jumped from that high before, it was terrifying and my balls absolutely killed afterwards, think they got pushed back inside my body! Also blew up the airbed and did some airbed white water rafting which was all fun and games while you were on the airbed but was really painful if you fell off. Smashing your knees, feet and arse against submerged rocks isn't as fun as it sounds. Evening we smashed a 2kg lasagne between three of us and watched 'A Bug's Life' - forgot how funny it was!

Saturday we moved hostel to a nomads, shock! Then went on a 'croc cruise' which cost $24 and we saw two fucking crocs. $12 a croc! Bullshit! But at least I've now seen a croc, jelly and koala in the wild. Just need to see a snake and a shark to get the full Oz experience!

Had a big night out with some girls we met at our hostel in the evening. A 2-for-1 at Gilligans meant we got smashed on $2.25 schooners! Bargain!

Went back after Gilligans and stayed up for some reason. We played volleyball by the pool and had pillow talk - ended up staying up till 4am. Ha.

Sunday we went to lagoon in Cairns and then drove to Port Douglas which is an amazing scenic ocean drive and is responsible for my new cover:


Port Douglas was quaint - we played slap ball on the beach and went in the sea coz they had an enclosed stinger free area! When we got back we watched 'Crazy Stupid Love' which is actually really funny and then played cards downstairs. Spoons got out of hand.

Got up early Monday morning to go on a Great Barrier Reef snorkel tour which was pretty special. The GBF is a giant version of what I saw at the Whitsundays before. Saw parrot fish, some huuuuge fish and a couple of sharks which was amazing - they were reef sharks so only about the same length as a person and not a danger to us.


Today is Tuesday and we left for townsville this morning on our way to the outback. I write this with a full head of hair but when we reach Townsville I plan on shaving my head. I don't really know why.. but why not?

Here are some last shameless selfies of me with hair👦👦



Sadly if you're reading this from the UK when you wake up it'll be done and too late to convince me to change my mind. Aaaaaaah!

👴👴👴

See you round suckers!

PS. Outback reception will be shite so if I'm off the grid for a while don't go crazy we're prepared we have 20 litres of water, a 20 litre Jerry can with spare fuel, enough food to last for 3 days and all the camping gear, suncream and bug spray we need 😘💪👊

Tuesday, 10 March 2015

Surfers Paradise✅ Noosa✅

Arrived at Surfers Paradise and checked in to a hostel that was like a hotel - our own room, bathroom and balcony, pools, tennis courts, sauna etc.. but we went surfing straight away as it was getting late - although the city is on the waters edge and the tall buildings lights up the surf even when it's dark so we stayed out for quite a while!

Woke up relatively early and played some tennis (I won obv) then we ate some 'special' shortbread from Nimbin which didn't do much. Met some girls at our hostel in the evening to go out with, got quite drunk and hit Sin City which was a good laugh! There was an afterparty till quite late in our room with other Nimbin purchases too which explains how we slept in till 3pm the next day!

When we finally got up I went to get a haircut, went surfing and in the evening we watched Kingsman at the cinema which was a nice quiet night!

Left for Noosa Wednesday morning with a stopoff at a beach! The hostel we arrived at in Noosa had its own bar which means drinking your own drinks is not allowed anywhere. Needless to say we bought goon anyway and predrank in our room with some really nice girls we met. Ended up going to the bar which had live music from a really cool guy who just used a guitar and loop pedal like Ed Sheeran.


Thursday morning we did a coastal walk to the famous nudist beach: Alexandria beach! Obviously I immersed myself in the culture and skinny dipped but saw a stingray and didn't fancy getting stung where it would really hurt so stayed on the beach and just covered my pale white arse in suncream! 


Saw a wild koala on the walk back and it waved at us (maybe) then gooned again in room, got it confiscated, hit the hostel bar and then made it to a club for 20 mins before picking up a few Sheila's #stopit

Friday we went to Noosa beach in the morning and kayaked in the river in the afternoon which was amazing - saw Pelicans, swarms and swarms of crabs and a stingray! We also tipped each other in, stole each others kayaks and threw wet sand at each other too. Goes without saying.

Friday night we treated ourselves to a few beers and spent the evening on the beach sampling some of Nimbins finest herbal remedies with our hostel buddies!


Saturday we went to a maze and mini-golf place and when we came back there was a swim/drink relay competition in the pool so we joined in for the bants before we drove to a lookout point to watch the sunset.


Our goon got confiscated straight away Saturday night though so it was a quiet one preparing for FRASER ISLAND in the morning...

Stuck on a desert island (Fraser Island✅)

Left at about midday Sunday for Rainbow beach where we were catching a barge to Fraser Island from. Fraser Island is the largest sand Island in the world and has no roads, only sand tracks through rainforest and on beaches so is only accessible by high clearance 4WD aka. THE PAJERO!

It's pretty remote so we had to stop off to buy camping stuff and stock up on food and booze for the three nights we were there so it was getting late by the time we got to Rainbow beach! We checked the final barge time and it was in 15 minutes so we didn't have time to go to the petrol station to top up fuel for the island and I just had to belt it towards the beach so we could catch the barge! We got to where the road becomes beach and hto get the barge you have to drive literally up to the waters edge across soft sand but we hadn't taken any air out the tyres for sand driving yet so we had to stop to do it. Aaron went to hold the barge but it started leaving while he was on it so we had no choice - we stormed the beach with one half deflated tire and still in 2WD. We got stuck straight away! But then engaged 4WD, reversed out and made it to the waters edge, drove up the ramp and had to deal with the embarrassment of the burning clutch smell, a smell we would become more familiar with on Fraser.


Saw Dolphins from the barge which was a first for me and we deflated our tyres properly. Once we got onto the island it was a long drive along the beach on nice easy wet sand where we saw a huuge dead turtle and an eagle!



Once we turned off the beach the driving was more tricky - inland sand tracks are single lane soft sand and bumpy as fuuuuck! We made it although we got to the campsite at Central Station after dark! Sunset is like 6pm here so some reason! Made tacos and hit the hay :)

Monday we woke up, went to Central Station to look for fuel, there was none but we walked down to a creek which was incredible - sand at the bottom and had crystal clear drinkable water so we went in and drank some obv.

(it's really hard to see but there is actually a stream in this photo - the water is just so clear!)

Next stop was Lake Mckenzie - a beautiful perched lake that is only fed by rainwater so has completely clear water and sand that's as white and pure as the stuff at Whitehaven beach in the Whitsundays! Stayed for a while, swam right out into the middle of it and had a few bevs in the lake.



We left Lake McEnzie for Eurong where there was fuel and we saw a dingo on the way!


We topped up in Eurong for an outrageous 197 cents per litre - still better than England! Then onto the beach again to go up to Dundabarra where we stayed the night. Passed the sand cliffs on the way - formed just by the wind and rain over time. Also stopped at the Maheno - a 1935 shipwreck on its way to the scrap yard in Japan when it ran aground on Fraser Island.


Dundabarra was nice and on Tuesday morning we went on a walk that took us to some sand dunes which were so cool. We literally came out of a rainforest into a desert.

We left Dundabarra to drive up the beach further to Indian Head and this is sadly when the Paj had enough. The clutch gave in and we were stranded on a 75 mile long beach at the North of Fraser Island.

I'll rattle through the next bits because lots happened very quickly. 

- We flagged down a tour group convoy
- The guy we spoke to was called Gas 
- Gas towed us back to Dundabarra campsite
- We gave Gas the rest of our beers (...two beers)
- We climbed a hill to get phone signal on one of our phones
- We rang a guy to tow us down the beach to Eurong
- He couldn't get into the campsite with his flatbed truck so Vinnie towed us onto the beach
- The tow truck only took two people (you can't sit in the car while it's on the truck)
- Aaron and I hitchhiked down the beach with some Americans and some Aussies
- We actually got out and had a lil tourist excursion at Eli Creek - another unreal fresh water river that you can float/walk down
- The car got put down at Eurong and we stayed at the resort there overnight
- We all got smashed and I don't remember anything but I tried to steal a Scottish flag from someone's window, we saw another Dingo aand we got high on the beach

This morning (Wednesday)
- The same guy took the Paj down the beach to Hook Point where we were to get the barge across to the mainland
- Anina and Paddy hitchhiked today coz we did yesterday
- At one point the tow truck couldn't fit because of the tide and driftwood had blocked the way so had to get out and lift a tree stump out the way while the tow truck squeezed past
- We didn't want to pay for the tow trucks barge fee there and back so got dropped where the barge picks up from
- Anina and Paddy got a lift down the beach with some Germans who then pulled us onto the barge, pulled us off the barge and drove two of us into town. Absolute heroes. Wouldn't even accept our money!
- Dave picked up the Paj once it was on the mainland beach and took it to the workshop it's at now at for a new clutch which will be fitted when the new part arrives 'first thing in the morning'



We stayed at a hostel in Rainbow Beach near the workshop last night and plan on surfing today (Thurs) while the Paj is fixed!

WHAT AN ADVENTURE

FAAAAAAAAACK

Predictions...
- New clutch fitted tomorrow and Gary decides not to charge us because I'm such a cool guy
- New clutch fixes grinding in the gearbox
- New oil filler cap falls out of the sky
- Coolant and oil topped up for free
- Chip in windscreen disappears
- Tyres automatically reinflate themselves to save us a job

That is all.
PS. I'm not dead